How to Stock Your Ancient Roman Pantry
It has been over a year, since my "wife' Gaia Cassia Longinus had visited the barbarian frontier of Maryland, as the newly elected Propraetor of that region, under the protection of Legio XX Valeria Victrix. (there was a small uprising of former gladiators and slaves, which was put down, and soldiers who fled the field of battle were sentenced to death in the arena). . This province demonstrated a need for Rome. Part of being a Roman citizen is good Roman food, which has certain culinary requirements, especially for the Patrician class, to create a pleasing and rich experience. I fancy myself an Epicurious in the realm of food and drink, and desire the best ingredients, unlike the Catonians, who prefer bland bread, and tasteless porridge. In today's correspondence, I wanted to discuss starting a proper Roman pantry and the true Roman merchants to obtain the necessary spices and ingredients for true Roman dishes, whether back in Rome or the most far away province.
For your basic herbal and spice needs, the average market will suffice sometimes. I find the merchants from Syria or Lebanon to be worthwhile (Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Indian markets carry a lot of the ingredients for Roman recipes). If you find that you are too far away from such merchants, never fear, you are always on a Roman road and will have access. For herbs and spices, you can count on the good people of www.spicetrekkers.com will be able to fulfill your needs. I also recommend the obvious www.amazon.com, as they carry spices that other shops may not. For a simple selection of herbs and spices a Roman kitchen just needs Sea Salt Black Pepper Thyme Basil Fennel Parsley Dill Cumin Corriander (whole and/or roughly ground) Mint Saffron (this is one of the pricier spices) Savory Asafetida (a common ingredient in Indian markets) Lovage (Amazon.com sells Lovage seeds, and they are eligible for Prime sometimes)
One of the more difficult herbs to acquire without a home garden is Rue (Ruta graveolens). While you can purchase the seeds, you do have to grow the herb yourself.
Of course, Garum needs no introduction. It is a staple of Roman condiments and cuisine. It brings the 5th flavor to dishes (after sweet, salty, bitter and sour). It is also vital in making a Roman sauce, typically as a base for liquamen. The closest approximation to good Roman Garum I found was Colatura di Alici di Cetara (sadly I cannot seem to import the brand I used to enjoy, but I may give this one a shot: https://www.amazon.com/Nettuno-Colatura-Anchovy-Sauce-Campania/dp/B000CRIFGM). In later correspondences, I will discuss how this is versatile in Roman sauces. For a less authentic Roman experience but a delicious one, for pasta dishes, I recommend some olive oil, a splash of garum, a little chili powder to taste and garlic, stir it into freshly cooked and drained pasta.
Grape must (another component of sauces and wines) is easily obtainable from the Roman market (it is also readily available online). Saba grape reduction makes an excellent must (be careful to not accidentally getting balsamic vinegar which is produced from must). You can also create your own must by taking pure grape juice and boiling it until it is reduced to a syrup (1/3 original volume usually), by mixing must and garum (a 3:1 ratio works but all cooking is to taste) you can create a liquamen.
Other essential ingredients such as olive oil, wine vinegar, and honey are easy to come by anywhere in the Empire. And easy to come by, but as my dear mother always said "you get what you pay for". So I recommend reputable merchants in all things.
Next time I will discuss how to make an easy and delightful sauce for cooked meat, that will please and impress your patrons, rumor has it the Optio is running for military tribune and could use all the help he can get. Until next time.
Vae Victus Marcus Cestius Pullus